After spending a decent amount of time on social media posting about my fur-babies and receiving feedback, I’ve come to realize that there are quite a few people out there with very basic questions about chinchillas. It seems I’ve skipped right over that in my blog and discussed more complex issues! In an effort to condense all beginner Q&A in one area, I’ve decided to do a very simple blog post with a lot of information this week: Chinchilla Basics 101.
What is a chinchilla? A chinchilla is super soft crepuscular rodent, native to South America’s Andes. Simply because these animals have a rodentia classification, they are no ordinary rodent: they are extremely clean, beautiful animals with a great depth of emotive and intellectual capability. Their name means “little Chincha,” named after the indigenous Chincha people of the Andes. Crepuscular means that chinchillas are most active at dawn and dusk. It is a common misconception that chins are nocturnal, as they are not. In the wild, they’ve been known to live at high altitudes in herds of up to over 100 chinchillas, but as a pet, can be very picky about which chinchilla(s) he or she wants to live with. Chinchillas have poor eyesight but a strong sense of smell, hearing, and through their whiskers, touch. Through their whiskers, they can sense pressure changes and vibrations. They also have excellent memories and are incredibly fast, agile, and can be very high jumpers. Chinchillas are very intelligent and have specific personalities and preferences, which means it can take quite a while to bond and get to truly know your chinchilla. How long can a chinchilla live? Chinchillas can live upwards of 20 years with strong genetics and a healthy diet, although the average is 12-15 years. Chins are no short-term commitment, meaning that a lot of consideration must be made prior to buying your first chinchilla. Your heart may start in the right place, but due to your wallet, growing family, or lost interest, you may put a sweet chinchilla out of a good home, causing this intelligent and emotional animal to become neglected and end up in the hands of someone who doesn’t care to research a chinchilla’s needs as well as another first-time owner. In such a case, you are encouraged to reach out to a chinchilla rescue and research the best options for your pet.
Are chinchillas considered exotic pets? Chinchillas are critically endangered animals, having been hunted to near-extinction for the profit-hungry fur industry – 90% killed off in the wild in the span of a mere 15 years. They are indeed exotic (although not in terms of import/export in the United States) – there has yet to be extensive scientific research on their species, in terms of intellectual, emotional, or physical capabilities, outside of some agricultural uses. Most of what chinchilla owners know beyond the very basics is based largely on first-hand experience, opinion, or what we have gathered about chinchillas prior to hunting them out of the wild. Since chins have been domesticated, bred in captivity, and raised as pets, chinchilla breeding has become an art of sorts – with very beautiful colors (i.e. Blue Diamond) and variations (i.e. Royal Persian Angora and Locken), in extremely exclusive markets (i.e. select markets have refused to sell to others, keeping the costs of certain variations of chinchillas in the high thousands). Aside from color mutations and breeding variations, chinchillas are all-around very special animals, with special needs. A few of these needs are:
- Temperature: chinchillas can overheat at temperatures over 75°F, as they do not have sweat glands. Chinchillas have 50-100 hairs per follicle, as compared to a human’s 1 to 1 ratio. They are built for high altitude, cold environments with very low humidity. Owners are responsible for recreating that environment – it’s suggested to keep your chin’s living space between 60 and 70 degrees Fahrenheit (still comfortable for owners, safe for chinchillas). Red ears are a sure sign of overheating: if your chinchilla is too hot, be sure to place him/her in a cool environment with a cool slab of granite and closely monitor his or her water and food consumption. Be sure to always have a 24-hour exotic vet’s contact information on hand, in case of emergency.
- Diet: Chinchillas should be free-fed, and they have very specific diets (and very sensitive little tummies!). While they can over-indulge on any plethora of treats, they cannot overeat on their diet basics: high quality chinchilla pellets and fresh Timothy hay. Read up on my version of a safe chinchilla diet here.
- Teeth: Dental care for chinchillas is critical for a healthy lifestyle. Chin teeth are constantly growing, and need to be filed down with wood chews to stay healthy. There are quite a few dental problems that can occur, rising either genetically or through poor care. It’s imperative to have a plethora of safe woods and chews readily available for your chinchilla and check for any changes in consumption or behavior, as changes could be a sign of dental problems.
- Health: Chinchillas require careful monitoring, as they do not show illness or pain very visibly. They are unable to communicate in the way a dog or cat could whine, as some chins are not very vocal. It’s necessary for owners to constantly monitor food and water consumption, as well as ‘output’.
- Cage: Ideally, chinchillas need spacious, non-plastic, multilevel cages with safe wood platforms and other elements to encourage chewing and prevent boredom. Additionally, wire bottomed cages can create a condition known as ulcerative pododermatitis, or “bumblefoot”, which is a bacterial infection that occurs from calloused feet. It’s important that if you have a wire cage, offer many areas where the wire is covered with fleece or replaced with hard flooring. Read up on how to build your own custom chinchilla cage here.
- Exercise: Chinchillas need a good amount of safe room for exercise and stretching their furry legs! Everything in your chin’s exercise space must be chinchilla-proofed – tight spaces must be closed off, sharp objects put away, wires and molding hidden behind blankets or cardboard. It’s necessary for owners to be present and active watchers during playtime, in case something goes awry. Chinchillas are like babies – they truly need constant supervision. Read up on tips for chinchilla playtime here.
- Cleaning: Well, chinchillas are high maintenance. You’ll find yourself vacuuming, dusting, sweeping, filling food bowls, hay racks, and water bottles, sneezing up dust and hay particles left and right. It’s no glamorous job, but owners have to do it daily. I would say that upwards of 33.33% of my relationship with my chinchillas is active cleaning or feeding duty.
Are chinchillas easy to care for? No. Do not be fooled by pet stores or oblivious owners. If you are a caring owner, chinchillas are not easy pets. Be prepared to spend at least an hour a day with these guys, especially if you want to bond with them. My family has often told me my energy and time dedicated to my 5 chinchillas is very similar to owning a mid-sized dog (albeit a dog that can live up to 20 years), and I wouldn’t disagree. It requires just as much time, money, energy, and emotion to adequately provide what I consider to be a happy life for these guys. Does it get easier? Yes. With time, routine, and a little bit of help from your loved ones, caring for your chinchillas is like riding a bike – still takes energy, but you get stronger with experience.
Why do chinchillas need dust baths? Because chinchillas have around 60 hairs per follicle, their fur is the densest in the world. Their fur is so dense that they cannot contract fleas, nor bathe in water to clean themselves. Their fur is not be able to dry naturally and could create deadly fungus or other skin conditions if not treated immediately (AKA carefully blow-dried on the coolest setting). In the wild, chins bathe in volcanic ash to ensure the richness and cleanliness of their dense coats, which helps to remove moisture and oil. In captivity, chins bathe in a very similar dust (created from ultra-fine aluminum silicate powder), often branded as Californian blue cloud dust. If your chinchilla has dry skin problems (this can occur in dryer times of the year), dust 2-3 times per week. If your chinchillas have no skin issues and love to dust, daily dusting is totally fine!
What items do I need/should I buy for my first chinchilla?
- Cage: Try at all cost to avoid plastic, which most chins will chew up, and as mentioned before, cover wire bottoms. Cages should be multilevel, spacious, and if you have the time/energy, you should build your own! It’s suggested that chins should have a safe wooden house to hide away in while they become accustomed to their new environment.
- Food: High quality pellets and a variety of hays (Timothy should always be available and the foundation for your chin’s hay diet). Read up on my version of a good diet here.
- Wood and Chews: The more, the better! Woods and chews prevent boredom and encourage teeth filing. Read up on your safest options here.
- Ceramic Bowls: One for hay and one for pellets! Ceramic tends to be most popular, but I also use some very thick bottom-heavy glass bowls – it’s important to ensure glass bowls don’t tip and aren’t movable. If you’re able to affix these to your shelves, that would be for the best. Chins love to tip bowls over. I would suggest a hay rack as well, but certain types are chin-dangerous in their structure, so I would avoid using a rack until you do a bit more research about what works with your particular cage and what will be safest for your setup.
- Glass Water Bottle: Avoid plastic! Chins will chew right through them, leaving them without water and a big mess.
- Dust: Blue cloud dust is widely available on the web, and can be bought in bulk quantities if needed. I start with 2-3 cups of dust in my container, reuse that quantity daily for all my chins, and add a half cup every week. It’s best to use a mostly closed container with an opening for fresh air. Remember to dust in a confined area because Dust. Gets. Everywhere. It’s important to note that not every chin needs to be dusted daily; mine do because they love to dust, have no dry skin issues, and we live in an area with moderate humidity.
- Granite or Stone Slab: Chinchillas need to stay cool, as you now should know. A slab of granite or polished stone will do nicely for a nice relaxing place to sleep, although it is in no way a replacement for the proper environment and temperature!
- Air Conditioning Unit and Thermometer: Yep, this is a step that’s critical for the warmer times of the year! Chinchillas don’t have sweat glands and are densely surrounded with fur, so they need to stay cool year-round at temperatures 75°F and below. Over-heating can be deadly, so don’t skimp on this one!
- Food Scale: Most commonly, chins are weighed in grams. Due to genetics, diet, and other factors, full-grown chinchilla weights can vary dramatically, from 400 g to 1200 g+! Most chinchillas are considered full grown around 8-18 months, so they should be constantly growing until then. As aforementioned, since chinchillas aren’t very expressive, their weight is a great way to see how they’re doing, and to determine the possibility of illness or injury. Any sharp decreases in weight should warrant an exotic vet visit ASAP. I keep record of my chins’ weight daily, so I know that there can be quite a variance in their weights on any given day due to consumption level, time of day, and other factors. Weights can fluctuate up to 20 grams a day, but as long as overall trend is upwards or at least the same over a period of 2-3 months, I’m happy. Read about how to weigh your chinchilla here!
Start there, and learn as you go! Sure, as time goes on you’ll probably look into a wheel, hammock, cuddle buddy, and other fun accoutrements for your pet. But basics are basics, and that’s what this post is all about. I hope you find this helpful, and feel free to share with your friends and acquaintances – you know, the ones who ask, “What’s a chinchilla?” 🙂
LY Chinchillas Treat Donation
Donate healthy, delicious treats to LY Chinchillas to help keep our content going!
This would have been helpful when I got my first chinchilla! I did not even have a chance to prepare for him because some jerk had dumped him outside in the rainy season in a city to fend for himself. I walked out the back door of my apartment building to see a bunny/squirrel/rat thing hopping around the parking lot in the rain. Took me a full minute of running through all the animals I’d ever heard of in my mind before I realized it must be a chinchilla. Managed to catch him and carried him to a friend’s place (I couldn’t have him in my apartment) in a cotton shopping bag. I was a member of a hamster forum and they directed me to a chinchilla forum and boy was that learning curve steep! Here I am, some years and several chinchillas later, and my current count is 5 🙂
LikeLiked by 1 person
What a story! So amazing, I’m very happy you were able to save the little guy. Is he one of your five now? It’s sometimes hard to believe what some people will do to avoid responsibility! The poor fellow! But I’m very glad you were able to stick with them and become so dedicated to chins. 5 is no small task (I know!) and the learning curve is steep no matter where you’re coming from – unless, of course, you’re somehow born into it and grow up in it. 🙂
No:( Sadly he died of gut stasis a couple of years ago. His death tore my heart out. I do still have his daughter and “wife” though! (Free to a good home! Spayed female chinchilla! Spayed my butt…)
His daughter looks so much like him, sometimes I get a lump in my throat when I look at her. She’s not the sharpest tool in the shed (neither was he) but she’s just as sweet as he ever was and has the same nose :’) Her mother is a genius though.
LikeLiked by 1 person
Thank You. This is exactly the kind of information I need – brass tacks information on how to care for them with no candy coating. These little guys sure are cute, but I want to know exactly what kind of commitment I will be making (both time and money) before I wade in. This answered all of my questions and then some. Thanks again, Linda
LikeLiked by 1 person
Thank you Linda! Very happy to help! 🙂
LikeLiked by 1 person
Love your site! By far the best one I’ve found on Chins (and I’ve seen alot). I was wondering if you have any advice on buying a Chinchilla, like what to look for or where to buy from. Thanks!
Thank you Bre – that really means a lot! Thanks for leaving such awesome sweet words 🙂 As far as buying a chinchilla, I suggest looking on the Chins N Hedgies forum – they normally have lists of reputable breeders in your area (and if not, they’re very helpful to direct you in the right direction)!
This is super, super, SUPER helpful. I have decided to get my very first chin within the next month and your website has helped me so much in preparing and what I need to know and such. However, is there any checklist of chin-proofing my room? My room is fairly small, but messy. (Which will change, I’m just thinking of all of the things I need to do and I don’t want to leave out anything.)
Hi Lexi, thank you so much for stopping by! Can’t express how much the chins and I are happy to have helped you in preparing for your first chinchilla child! As for chin-proofing, I suggest starting out in confined spaces such as a closet or a bathroom. Of course, these areas should be free of all things from the floor and very clean. I suggest starting out this way for at least a good part of the year as you get to know your chin-child and their temperament, as well as helping him/her to build confidence. You can put in some “furniture” made of chin-safe wood, or chin-safe chews in the area. Be sure to control the temperature of your play area, and keep the playtimes short – often, chins can over-exert themselves so under 15 minutes per session makes the most sense. Owners tend to think chins falling asleep or tiring themselves out in a playtime session is a positive thing – in fact, it is not: that only means they have overworked themselves and really need some water, food, and rest. Moderation is key! As for chin-proofing, pretty much unless you have a completely bare room with no items on the floor, it cannot be fully chin-proofed. However, I’ll write a blog post with some tips for your additional reference!
Hi I’m a new chinchilla owner. My baby is named Violet and I think she around 9month. She recently had a Upper Respiratory Inffection , she got treated with anti-bio for 7 days and received 2 shots. 3 days after the medicine treatment was over she started to sneeze again and I freaked out and took her to a different vet because my original vet wasn’t going to be in for about 3 days .they gave her a 14 days treatment for antibio and she still remained sneezing for about 5 days so I took her to original vet and they said that they should have not have her prescribed that. they told me they have had cases like this and have given the sick chins 1 shot every other day ,for three day and now it’s over and 4 days later she still sneezing like crazy and will whimp . I feel so bad . I don’t know what I am doing wrong and I don’t want her to suffer . Do you have tips or experiences with this ?
Omg Yuni – I’m so sorry! I did not see this and I see it was sent so long ago! How is Violet? Is she okay?